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Welcome to Airsoft CT’s Airsoft Gun Reviews!

Welcome to Airsoft CT‘s Airsoft Gun Reviews!

 Be sure to check back for updated airsoft gun reviews on many of the newest products to hit the shelves, along with some older items for good measure. We aim to find the best tactical equipment out there for specific needs and provide an honest opinion as to it’s ups and downs.

Each review will be broken down into general impressions, packaging, build quality, testing and final thoughts. Feel free to discuss each review in our Airsoft Reviews Section of our Airsoft CT Forums

Binky’s Ares Tavor Tar-21 Airsoft Gun Review.

Sat May 14, 2011 8:27 am // 0 comments // Binky

So this airsoft gun has been reviewed umpteen times by any number of people, including Moondog, so I won’t be going in-depth like they did. This will simply be my own observations. Oddly enough, the quality control tag on this gun was from 2009, so I’m assuming that these have not been flying off the shelf lately. Also, the relatively poor MARS sight version is now cheaper than the full size Dark Earth (tan) version with the rails that I purchased. Every review of this airsoft gun that I read mentioned that these things had horrible air seals, which were responsible for the poor performance out of the box. I’m personally more interested in the platform than stock performance so this was slightly moot to me. That said, there are some proprietary parts in this airsoft gun, which can make upgrading it annoying if you’re used to just building M4’s. The airsoft gun comes in a decent box with everything needed short of a battery. This includes a metal midcap magazine, a metal flash hider to replace the orange plastic, and a feed tube speedloader for it. I found some difficulty fitting this mag into the mag-well with the rifle shouldered. The MAG Midcaps magazines I used are plastic and did not get caught up as there were no edges as there are on the metal midcap supplied by Ares. With .20’s the gun didn’t even shoot 270. Obviously, this gun suffers from the same airleak the others do as I believe they should be shooting approximately 330. I’ll be adding a o-ringed air nozzle and a tighter cylinder head to fix this before bothering with an upgraded spring. Spring replacements for this airsoft gun are simple and can be done by simply un doing a screw in the back of the gear box and releasing the spring guide. No removal of the gearbox is required. The barrel is a standard barrel, no tight bore included as some of the airsoft gun reviews have noted. That said, the accuracy of the airsoft gun is fantastic, despite the low FPS. Range is obviously is poor compared to what I prefer, but fixing the air leak should help that. Hop up adjustment at present is also poor, and I’m assuming that’s due to it not having enough power to follow through. Maxed out, the bb moves slightly upward then falls off at about 100-150 feet. I did note that its moving in the same direction at that point. Replacing the hop up will be something I’ll look into when I take the gear box apart but at present I believe fixing the air leak will give me what I’m looking for with the stock hop up unit. The hopup unit is part of the gear box (proprietary parts..) and it’s accessible by moving the charging handle. The bolt catch releases the dust cover over the hop up. TAR-21 Airsoft Gun Review In this picture you can see the push button on the for grip, where the sling mounts are located, the charging handle to access the hop up(which is on the other side), the fire selector, and both iron sights folded down. I’ve left the orange flash hider in place as I plan on using this airsoft gun at Pine Plains and if memory serves me correctly, they require it. Image Here you can see the opposite side. Rails are on this side, as is the push pin to open the the butt plate. The fire selector on this side is merely an indicator. It’d need to be reversed along with the charging handle to be setup for a south paw. Both Iron sights are swung up or out to rest in their upward positions in this picture. An ACOG fits perfectly over the rear sight post with the iron sight down. Mag release is right before the magazine. Some have expressed concern with inadvertently releasing the magazine when maneuvering with the gun, but I have yet to experience that. I can see how it’d happen, but I’ve been unable to replicate it with normal use. Trigger response on this gun is wonderful. It has a nice crisp feel to it and responds instantly. I’m using an 11.1v 1500 mah battery on it so that may have something to do with it. Please note that you can pretty much only use batteries that’d fit in a buffer tube of an M4 for this one. This means the slightly larger Gforce 25c 11.1V 1800 mah batteries I purchased are just a tad too big. Battery/spring access is accessible by pushing out a push pin and rotating the butt stock down. I ended up swapping the mini connector to a deans as all my batteries use them. The TAR-21 airsoft gun feels solid. As stated, I bought this more for the platform than stock performance, and I’m thrilled with that. Not a rattle to be found. Everything is solid. The front hand grip has a two pin push button for activating the stock MARS reddot/laser setup or what ever you feel like wiring up and mounting to the rails. Shouldering it is perfectly comfortable with no gear on. With a plate carrier, I found it slightly awkward in the shoulder region due to the extra mass, but nothing I couldn’t manage. I’ll have to adjust things to use this to better effect. The standard iron sights are of the flip up variety and work reasonably well for what they are. I’m not much of a person for sighting with airsoft, so this is moot for me. There’s a sling mount up front that’s reversible (everything on this airsoft gun can be setup for ambidextrous use), and a hole in the back of the airsoft gun for a paracord sling mount. The first day I used this I used a single point sling and that left a lost to be desired. I later ordered an IDF 2 point sling that is a wonderful improvement. Click here for a review of the IDF Improved 2 Point sling from I get this thing properly outfitted I’ll update on the performance once again. If you plan on leaving this airsoft gun stock, I wouldn’t purchase it. You can easily buy a cheap clone gun from Echo1 or A&K that will offer much higher performance straight out of the box, albeit while sacrificing build quality and reliability elsewhere. If you don’t have a problem with updating a few pieces in a weird gear box design and like unique bullpup rifles, you may want to consider this.

Bravo BV7 Bolt Action Sniper Rifle

Tue Mar 08, 2011 7:22 pm // 1 comment // WARLOCK

I picked this up just so I could have a little diversity and some fun at the walk on games. Not looking to really get into the sniper role for bigger games, just to try some differant things. So this is my first review and the first of the 3 guns I own that I’ll do. Bravo BV7 Bolt Action Sniper Rifle Bought at Hot Spot Airsoft- NY Price- $99.98 free shipping over $70 and a 10% discount $30.00 for Upgrade spring and cyclinder Total spent- $116.00 First Impression– Comes in a large rectangle box, black, w/ BV7 on it. —-Nicely and tightly packaged in hard styrofoam case. Comes in 2 pieces, w/ one 30 rd magazine, speed loader, cheap strap, metal bi-pod. Also had about 100 BB’s in a bag. Don’t know wieght or size, not listed. Came with a flimsy grey rod. ——Website says Owners Manual included, however after research no manual exists for this gun. ——Gun stock is ABS plastic. Not good for regular skirmishing, but as a sniper you don’t move as fast. Barrel is 100% metal and good wieght. Roughly 6.5 lbs ——Gun measures 49 inches barrel measures 22 inches from front of stock piece. ——Gun is all black, except for bolt. Almost a flat black which makes it good for adding camo to it. ——I added the upgrade to make it shoot 550 fps w/ .2’s, stock shoots 475 fps. Range is stated as 220 ft. ——Hop up is odd, it is a little bar that protrudes from where the bipod connects to the rail and slides back and forth about 1 inch total. ——With the upgraded spring it is hard to pull back the bolt to cock it. Hopefully it becomes alittle easier with some use. ——Working on Video Review soon

tsd m87 disassembly guid

Wed Nov 10, 2010 6:43 pm // 2 comments // boom shtick

Awright, I have recently opeaned up my tsd m87 and (considering that there are none) have decieded to make a guid on the subject. Please keep in mind that #1: This is the first time that I have written anything like this so it is possible that I missed something. Use your head and keep an eye out for anything that might be worth remembering while your taking it apart. And #2: this gun was not made to be taken apart so (even though it can be taken apart) there is a risk of stripping screws. I have taken this shotgun apart and put it back together twice now, but I think that thats about the safty limit before your screws start stripping. Also, I’m sory that the pictures are so small, but they arn’t supposed to be. If you click on them, then they will opean to their full size. So here it is: Image this is said shotgun Image first you pull off the rubber but plate, unscrew this screwand pull the stock off Image there is a cover over the reciever. Pull it off Image go to the foregrip, take out the two screws keeping it in Image pull the sides of the foregrip apart starting with the right one Image take out these screws Image go to the rear sight, take out these three screws, and lift off that cover that you see Image you may now pull the outer barrel off Image take out the inner barrels and unscrew these screws Image if you don’t know what to do with this step then you’ve got issues Image thing that restrains the bbs until you cock the gun Image the three inner barrels. Mine had some kind of wierd sticky grease in them that I had to remove Image on to the rear assembly Image this is the thing that keeps the cocking handel forward after you’ve cocked the gun. Take it out Image take out indicated screws Image pull the trigger assembly and the side off the gun Image opean the loading hatch Image the spring Image the cylinder. Mine had a ton of junk in it that had to be removed Imagegeneral parts remember to clean the gun before you put it back together. to put it back together reverse the process. I’m not responsible for anything that goes wrong. Thank you

Magpul PTS Masada ACR

Sat Sep 18, 2010 3:55 pm // 4 comments // HAVOC

First thoughts on the Masada ACR: (I have the FDE version) Pros: real trademarks awesome looking rifle perfect for right and left handed shooters (or switching to your “weak” side) build quality/materials are excellent alot of room for a battery quick change spring comes in black, flat dark earth and foliage green quick detach barrel assy magazines are easy to maintain easy disassembly with minimal tools required compatible with most Tokyo Maruitype mags Cons: somewhat expensive front hand guard looks kinda big plastic flashhider (super glued on) CW flashhider threads (most AEG’s are CCW) doesn’t come with foldable stock low FPS (310 FPS with .25) out of the box no tools included Magpul PTS P-mags are expensive Haven’t played with it yet. I did put a M120 spring in it and the FPS jumped to 380 FPS with .25’s. The quick change spring is a very nice idea. It would have been nice if Magpul included an allen wrench to change the spring. I don’t know what size it is (5mm or 6mm?). I used a flat head screwdriver, but an allen wrench will be easier to use. I’ll add some more info after I use it in at least one game.

[AEG] Internal Review: G&G Combat Machine / GI G4 Series

Wed May 19, 2010 4:52 pm // 10 comments // Age

Internal Review of the G&G Combat Machine / Airsoft GI G4 Series ImageImage Hope you enjoy the review, and I hope to write up some more! First Impressions When I opened the gearbox, there where a few things that caught my attention. The first thing I noticed is the anti reversal latch (ARL), stayed in place very nicely as seen here. Image It was not your typical ARL that flings off, or is impossible to keep in place. It is crafted with great precision. The next thing I noticed was the rack gear (teeth on the piston). The second to last tooth on the piston was absent, as shown in this picture. Image This helps with correcting your AOE (angle of engagement). Just this by itself will not correct AOE, however it does make it easier. It also helps prevent premature engagement with the sector gear, a common problem in high rof setups. The polycarbonate used for the piston is very soft, and can strip very easily. If you want to run a setup that is greater then the stock setup, I would recommend you change the piston. When the gun is in it’s stock form, the piston will last for a while, but otherwise, I would change it. The next thing I noticed, that is clearly a fault, is the cylinder port as seen in the picture below. Image The picture compares the stock G&G cylinder (blue) to a stock clone MP5 cylinder (brass) which is a Type-2. You can clearly see the port on the G&G cylinder sits further up then the Type-2 cylinder. This will cause a noticeable lose in range, fps, and overall air output. I would definitely change it with a Type-1 cylinder, as that is the proper type for a M4 length barrel. The cylinder itself is very smooth, and gives great compression, provided the other compression components work with it. However it still needs to be replaced as it is the wrong type. The cylinder head (shown in the following pic), is made of cheap polycarbonate. Image It will hold up fine in the stock setup, however it could crack if you run a heavy spring or an aluminum piston/piston head. Padding it will help, although a new head altogether would be best. Further Disassemble and Inspection of the Gearbox The next gearbox component we see is the air nozzle and tappet plate. Image Nothing special about them, just your everyday nozzle and tappet, and they both do their job just fine. Removing the piston head from the piston body shows that it does not have bearings like the proline, rather a plastic washer. Image Image It is the same type used in the Proline, however the proline also uses bearings, this one does not. This next picture is a forward view of the piston head showing the ports. Image As you can see, they have little swirls. It is suppose to help with the compression, however I really don’t notice any benefit from them. Something that was a fault in the design, was that there are small ports in the back of the piston head. This lets air escape giving you horrible compression. The fallowing pic shown below, shows you the ports in the back of the piston head. Image The compression and air output/efficiency was horrible. The gun was missing a good 30-50fps do to the poor compression. This gun could definitely use some improvement on the compression. A new piston head and cylinder can give you an increase of 30-50fps. Here we see the spring and spring guide. Image Image The spring is just that, a spring, nothing special or out of the ordinary. The spring guide is non bearing, and solid metal. The quality is decent, about on par with a clone gun. Removing all of the upper gearbox components, exposes the front end of the gearbox shell as seen below. Image I would not consider it “reinforced” though it is built very strong. It will hold up very well for a stock V2 gearbox. Here we see the gears, which are standard ratio and made of steel. If you look closely, you can see the spur gear has “G&G” stamped onto it. Image Image These gears are not heat treated, and are on par with clone gun gears. Removing the gears reveals the bushings. Image Image They are made from cheap powdered brass, and can wear down (or in some cases, shatter) very easily. I would definitely replace them. In this particular model (X4-A1) it uses 8mm size bushings. After only a few hundred rounds they are already starting to wear down. Like I said before, I would definitely replace them. Here we have the cutoff lever and safety. Image They are both made from a very soft metal, so the cutoff lever could wear down easily under any setup with a high rof. The safety is also made from a soft metal, however it does not bother me, as safeties do not usually wear out very fast. Next we have the selector plate. It is made from a decent polycarbonate, nothing out of the ordinary. If you look closely you can see it has “GR16” molded onto the plate. Image However, when you compare it to another selector plate, you will notice that it is absent of the metal strip, which is normally used to complete the circuit when moved forward. The picture shown below compares the two types, the G&G (bottom) and the original/normal type (top). Image Here we see the trigger contacts and wires. Image As you can see, the metal on the back is already connected. This is why the selector plate does not need the metal strip, as the circuit is already half complete (the other half being one pull of the trigger). The contacts and the unit itself are great quality. I’ve never had a problem with G&G trigger contacts or trigger units. The wires are very cheap, and very thin, they can short out/burn out very easily. I would definitely replace them if you plan on using anything past a 8.4v or 9.6v. The motor (shown below, attached to the gearbox, it’s a little hard to see) is not very good. Image The motor will hold up fine pulling the stock M100 spring, but struggles greatly to pull a M120 or a M130 spring. The rof is not to bad, but definitely lacking, getting around 10rps with a 8.4v battery, and 15rps with 9.6v battery. G&G motors also tend to wear down VERY quickly (only takes a few hundred rounds to burn it out). However the pinion gear on the motor is fantastic! It is made from an incredible strong steel. I have never had any problems at all with G&G pinions, so there’s no need to replace the pinion. Hopup and Barrel Components Now we move onto the hopup and barrel. The hopup unit itself (shown below, fully assembled) is made from ABS plastic, so heavy usage could break it. Image Personally, I have never had any problems with plastic G&G hopup units, however I know a few people who have. It should not be a priority to replace it, though it would be wise to do so eventually. The bucking (green, shown below, on the left) is very soft, so it will work better at low/normal fps setups. Image At the stock fps (about 300 w/ .2g BBs) it gave fantastic results. It gave a very consistent hop, and had no trouble engaging heavy BBs (.28g). Here we have the barrel. Image As you can see, it is not the smoothest nor the most accurate. Having said that, it’s definitely better then any other barrel for a gun in it’s price range. The groupings it gave are decent. It got about 8-10inch groupings at 130feet with .2g BBs (max range of 150feet). I am not 100% sure of the bore size to this particular barrel, it will vary depending on which model you get. it will either be 6.04mm, or 6.08mm. Final Conclusion and Rating Overall, it’s definitely a good gun compared to other guns in it’s price range (mostly clone guns). It does need some work and improvement though… It had some compression problems, replacing those parts will cost you a good $30. The motor struggles to pull an upgraded spring, and if it burns out, a new one will cost you a good $25+. The piston may not be the best, but it is definitely good and will hold it’s own on the stock setup. If the wiring burns out, you can buy an aftermarket wire set which will cost you about $20, which is expansive, so I would recommend you just buy the wires at a hardware store, for as little as $10. The bushing are one of the worst things about this gun, and should be replaced. That will cost you about $15-$20. In it’s stock form, the overall internal rating for this gun is a 5/10. Once all the kinks are worked out, it gets a solid 8/10.It’s a good gun for the price, though I expected a lot more from G&G. I would recommend it due to the guns externals (I’ll get to them in a later review) and if you plan on working out the kinks. Thank you for reading my review, and I hope this helped you chose what gun you should buy.

|Review| Classic Army M15A4 RIS (w/Crane Stock)

Fri Mar 05, 2010 8:15 pm // 0 comments // sonjamichelle

I’m quite happy with my Classic Army M4 RIS. Image Classic Army M15A4 RIS (Crane Stock Model) Product SKU: AR004M-2-X Features: * Easy Dis-assembly metal body with laser ‘Armalite’ real gun logo, and individual serial number * Hi-cap magazine (300 Rd) * 7mm bearing gear box * Metallic R.I.S. with one piece outer barrel * New steel gears * Reinforced slip ring * Nylon & glass fiber hand grip, hand guard * Metallic hop-up chamber & new hop-up rubber * High torque motor * Special Forces Crane Stock I just put in a Madbull 363mm 6.03mm tightbore, get about 370FPS with decent accuracy. Could be better though. Looking at better bucking, “H” nub and possibly a better hop up unit. No wobble from the receivers or barrel. Slight wobble from the lower RIS, but only noticeable when a vertical grip is utilized. MAG brand mid-cap (130rnd) magazines fit nice and tight with consistent feeding. Crane stock holds a 9.6v 4200MaH battery. ROF is nice without being insane. Battery installation in the crane stock can be a bit tricky at first, but once you get the hang of it and have some care and patience it’s no sweat. The CA M14 does NOT come with a battery, so one needs to be purchased separately. Same goes for a charger. Finish and trades are nice, though scratches will reveal the shiny metal underneath over time. But that’s pretty much with any AEG. The orange flash hider is painted in a way that it’s not overly garish. The flash hider screwed off easily with the loosening of a set screw. New madbull flash hider screwed right on with no issues. I removed the front swing swivel since I utilize a left handed single point sling mount at the rear of the receiver. I had to use a hammer and punch to remove the pins to do so. The swivel mount ended up breaking apart in the process. Relatively weak metal used here. The receiver pins are tight!! Each time I field strip it to clean the barrel I need to use a mallet to pop them out. No losing them and no wobble because of the tightness. So that’s a pro. Only issue is that the dust cover will not stay closed. The slightest bump and it opens. No biggy though. There’s a false bolt that still covers the hop up adjusters. It has a working bolt catch that will lock the false bolt open in order to make hop adjustments. Overall it’s a really solid gun! Has a bit of a heft due to all the metal. Not overbearingly so, but if you’re used to plastic AEGs, you’ll notice the weight for the first few skirmishes. BTW, it comes with a carry handle with iron sights. NOT a scope. That’s an aftermarket add-on. Some more photos with the additional riser mount. Image Image

A review of the Thunder B grenades.

Fri Feb 05, 2010 6:30 pm // 7 comments // Top T

As soon as these came to our store, a couple of us got some sets, thinking of what kind of nasty things we could do to them. We bought some CO2 cartridges, then “tested” them out. For those that don’t know, Thunder B grenades are live action grenades that use CO2 to cause the grenade to pop; loudly. There are two kits for purchase- a beginner pack and a player’s pack. Both kits come with a core and a few outer shells. Beginner pack has a core and 3 shells, a player back has a core and 12 shells. The way it works- insert a CO2 cartridge into the grenade core. When safety pins are pulled, and the spoon is released, a hammer system slams into the top of the CO2 cartridge. The punctured cartridge quickly (about 4-6 seconds) fills up the hollow shell of the grenade to bursting point, then pops… loudly. Afterwards, simply unscrew the core from inside the ruptured grenade shell, replace the spent CO2 cartridge, then screw on a new outer shell. Reset the hammer and safety pins, and go at it again. As advertised, they are LOUD. And a bit of smart thinking went into the shell design as well. We wondered if the grenade actually exploded hard enough to send bits and pieces everywhere, but by design, there are seams that are meant to burst open. No flying debris. Since the outer shell is hollow and the core fits inside, we wondered if we might make the grenade more effective by putting stuff inside the grenade shell. That way, when it burst, there might be secondary effects. We thought of putting baby powder into it, thinking there would be a big poofy cloud to go along with the loud bang. Unfortunately, it didn’t work at all. As the CO2 was released into the shell, it mixed up the baby powder, which then gummed up all the works within the core, not allowing the air to release as explosively as expected. The grenade just swelled up and fizzled. Then we thought about putting bb’s inside the hollow shell. With the designed seam-burst, bb’s won’t come out as explosively (or in a wide pattern), like we thought. Ultimately, after testing about 8 grenades, we came to realize the grenades function best when utilized without extra stuff. I also took 2 cores and 15 shells to a big op today to get some battlefield testing. Pros- very loud, economical, safe, and quite the attention-getter. Cons- couple things: -The core must be kept clean at all times. After using the same core 3 times in a dusty field, when I attempted to use it again, it merely fizzled in the same manner it did when we put powder inside of it. Dust must have gummed up the inner workings of the core. -Part of the core is plastic. A vital part. When you throw the grenade, the spoon is released and the hammer strikes the CO2 cartridge. That whole part is plastic and is vulnerable to breakage. When you throw the grenade, you run the risk of the top of the grenade (where the plastic part is) of breaking when it hits the ground. I took two grenades to an op, and one broke the first time I chucked it. There’s no way to fix it, so now I must purchase another set just to get another core. -There is no way to purchase just the core. There are large packages to buy replacement outer shells, but no way to buy just the core. Final verdict- I like these. Whenever one of my grenades went off, people 100 feet away knew it. After the second or third grenade went off, whenever people saw me chuck another grenade, they went running for the hills! Terrifying in its own right! VERY EFFECTIVE. And with the lessons learned, I’ll be sure to keep the cores clean and try not to break any more. If they could be made with aluminum cores, I’d gladly pay a few dollars more for a core that won’t break as easily, and will keep buying replacement shells (very cheap, by the way). Oh, I recommend tying some kind of bright streamer to this- when you throw it into heavy scrub, you run the risk of never finding it again. A bright streamer might help you locate it… WATCH THE YOUTUBE VIDEO HERE: watch?v=CueR_cAFPjM

We’ll be writing and posting more airsoft gun reviews!